A recent investigation into synthetic braiding hair products has ignited concerns among consumers, hair stylists, and health experts after Consumer Reports revealed the presence of potentially cancer-causing chemicals in several popular brands.
The report, published last month, found lead and other volatile organic compounds (VOCs) — including acetone and benzene — in 9 out of 10 synthetic braiding hair brands tested. Among the brands examined were household names like Sensationnel and Shake-N-Go, widely used in the Black hair community.
For many, the findings triggered alarm. But for others, including some cosmetic scientists, the study raises important questions about context and exposure rather than panic.
Javon Ford, a cosmetic chemist who frequently educates the public through social media, took to TikTok to dissect the findings. While acknowledging that Consumer Reports used California’s maximum allowable dose level (MADL) for lead to assess risk — a guideline based on oral ingestion — Ford stressed that these standards may not fully apply to hair products.
“The MADL they referenced is designed for drinking water — for what you consume,” Ford said. “But you’re not eating your braids. That’s not how the exposure typically works.”
Still, exposure isn’t limited to drinking water. Ford pointed out that users sometimes use their mouths to help section braiding hair or eat without washing their hands after handling it. And in some cases, children are known to put braids in their mouths, increasing potential risks.
That said, the detected lead levels in the hair samples were significantly lower than what is allowed in products like lipstick. “The limit for lead in lip products is 5 parts per million (PPM),” Ford noted. “None of the hair samples even hit 0.2 PPM.” In his view, the lead levels found were well within conservative safety margins.
But not everyone shares his outlook. Ciara Imani May, founder of Rebundle — a brand pioneering non-toxic, plant-based braiding hair — says the presence of any toxic chemicals in products worn so close to the skin and scalp is a cause for concern.
Also, read: Boxing Icon George Foreman Dies at 76: A Legend Remembered Beyond the Ring
“I’m not surprised, but I’m still very concerned,” May said in an interview with ESSENCE. “One in three people experience scalp irritation from plastic synthetic hair. There’s no truly safe level of lead exposure, especially when the product sits on your head for weeks.”
May has long advocated for cleaner alternatives. Her company, Rebundle, developed braiding hair made from banana fiber that’s 97 percent bio-based and designed to minimize scalp irritation. “Most synthetic hair is plastic. We’ve taken a more intentional route with skin-safe ingredients,” she said.
Still, innovation comes at a cost. Rebundle’s eco-friendly, reusable braiding hair starts at $36 a pack — a steep contrast to traditional synthetic hair, which can cost as little as a few dollars. May acknowledges the pricing gap, but emphasizes, “We’re not trying to compete with synthetic hair on price. We’re offering safety and sustainability.”
Beyond health concerns, the use of synthetic braiding hair has led some stylists and clients to adopt makeshift detox methods like apple cider vinegar rinses to avoid allergic reactions.
“I braided my hair recently and had to take it out because of the itching,” one hairstylist shared on TikTok. “My armpits, neck, belly — it was nonstop. My clients have also been requesting that we pre-rinse the hair before use.”
While the report from Consumer Reports may not call for immediate panic, it does expose a larger conversation about what consumers are putting on their bodies and how beauty intersects with health. As May puts it, “There’s a cost to cheap hair — and it’s not always visible at first glance.”
As the debate continues, one thing is clear: many are now looking more closely at what’s in the braids that have long been seen as a staple of Black beauty culture — and whether it’s time for safer, more transparent alternatives.
